How to store your car long-term without issues

Jet Sanchez
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Easy preparation ensures your car wakes trouble-free after months.

Easy preparation ensures your car wakes trouble-free after months.

Cars don’t like being ignored. Leave one sitting for months, and small problems turn into costly repairs. The trick is to set things up properly on day one, then let the car sleep undisturbed. 

Here’s how to store you car long-term and keep batteries alive, tyres round, interiors fresh and paint looking cared-for - even if the car isn’t moving.

Get it ready before parking up

Long-term car storage

Start with a clean slate. Wash and dry the exterior so you’re not locking in dirt, road film or salt, then finish with a coat of wax or sealant to protect the paint. 

Inside, vacuum, wipe the plastics and clear out anything that could smell or attract pests, like old takeaway bags, wet mats and forgotten gym gear.

Next, fuel. For petrol engines, fill the tank and add a stabiliser, then run the car for 10 minutes so treated fuel makes it through the system. A full tank also limits condensation. 

Diesel is less volatile, but still prone to water and microbes - so fill it, and if storage runs longer than a year, a biocide is worth adding (make a note in your logbook).

Fluids are your next line of defence. Old oil holds acids and grime, so if a service is due soon or you’re parking the car for more than six months, change the oil and filter first. 

Check coolant strength, brake fluid age and washer fluid (use a winter-safe mix so algae won’t grow). A light wipe of rubber-safe lube on door, bonnet and boot seals keeps them from sticking.

When parking, leave the handbrake off, as brake shoes can seize. Use wheel chocks instead. Pump the tyres to the higher end of the placard spec, even 30 to 40 kPa above, to reduce flat-spotting. If you’re storing on concrete, park on mats or boards to insulate the rubber.

Battery and tyres: the usual troublemakers

Open car hood

Flat batteries are the number-one storage complaint. A smart trickle charger or maintainer is the best solution, keeping charge topped without overcooking it. 

No power nearby? Disconnect the negative terminal to cut parasitic draw (just know you’ll lose radio presets and clock settings). On modern cars with alarms or memory systems, a maintainer is still the safer bet.

EVs are different. Don’t store them fully charged or nearly empty - aim for 40–60% state of charge, switch on any storage mode if fitted and check levels monthly. If temps swing a lot, leaving the car plugged in helps the management system keep the battery healthy.

Tyres flatten if left sitting. Higher pressures help, and rolling the car a quarter-turn each month is even better if you can manage it. 

Classic cars may benefit from axle stands under proper points, but only if you’re confident in the setup. Whatever you choose, jot down pressures and torque settings so recommissioning is easy later.

Keep out damp, critters and dust

Moisture quietly ruins interiors and wiring. A dry, ventilated garage is best. Toss in desiccant packs for the cabin and boot, and replace when full. Keep windows and vents closed. Outside storage? Use a fitted, breathable cover and not a plastic tarp, which traps condensation and scuffs paint in the wind.

Pests also love an idle car, especially engine bays. Clear any nesting debris and keep food or rubbish out of the area. Basic traps around the garage are fine; just avoid poisons inside the car. 

In high-risk areas, mesh over the intake snorkel and tailpipe works wonders, though flag them clearly so you remember to remove them later.

Before leaving, write yourself a quick checklist: battery status, tyre pressures, fuel stabiliser date and any intake covers. Future you will be grateful.

Waking it up again

When it’s time to drive, reverse the prep. Remove covers and meshes, reconnect or wake the battery, and check fluids on level ground. Reset tyre pressures, inspect sidewalls and peek under the car for leaks.

Start the engine and let it idle until smooth. Test brakes gently - they’ll feel rough with surface rust at first. Take a steady 20 to 30 minute drive to warm everything through, switching on the air-con and electrics along the way. EV owners should top up normally and let the car recalibrate its range estimate.

Do the prep once, and the car will thank you later. Long storage doesn’t need to mean long repair bills. It’s just a bit of planning, a bottle of stabiliser and a Saturday morning’s work.